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CAMP4 HUMAN PERFORMANCE
CoachingRehabilitationCoursesCertification Education Videos Podcasts Blog Research Our Favorite Tools About About Client Reviews
Muscular Endurance Training: What Does Pump Mean?
Muscular Endurance Training: What Does Pump Mean?

Over the last many years, I've invested a lot of time and effort in understanding the adaptations of finger strength training for climbing.

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General ClimbingTyler NelsonJune 22, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Coach Jesse on "Living in the panopticon: self-talk and climbing’s social media nightmare"

Words have power. In our self-talk before we even begin climbing, in the things we say to each other on the hike in, in the things overheard at the crag, and in the vast quantity of media we all consume these days, words hold sway over our thoughts.

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General ClimbingTyler NelsonJune 5, 2024
A Load Distribution Problem
A Load Distribution Problem

Disproportionately, when climbers only use a flat edge with a fixed depth, the middle two fingers take most of the stress.

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Taping Option for Flexible Finger Joints
Taping Option for Flexible Finger Joints

Flexible DIP joint? Watch this tip.

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Want Stronger Fingers? Think About the Hand.
Want Stronger Fingers? Think About the Hand.

There are 30 muscles in the hand alone.

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Big Edge Symptoms in Climbing
Big Edge Symptoms in Climbing

It’s common to experience pain on a large edge with compression to the tendon sheath and A4 pulley.

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
All Loads Have Risk
All Loads Have Risk

I’m psyched that more climbers are getting into weight training to supplement their health. The downside is the additional load on the fingers.

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Why Climbers' Hands Look Less Symmetrical
Why Climbers' Hands Look Less Symmetrical

At some point, a climber’s finger joints start looking less symmetric side-to-side. Why?

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Stop Scraping and Rolling the Tendon Sheath
Stop Scraping and Rolling the Tendon Sheath

Please stop scraping with a tool, or rolling over it with a ring. Those are truly useless.

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Necessary Evils When Climbing
Necessary Evils When Climbing

Climbing on small holds requires leverage, and multiple factors define leverage for an individual.

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Crimps and Active Tension on Fingers
Crimps and Active Tension on Fingers

When we talk about 'active positions' in climbing, we're referring to grips like the half and full crimp.

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Understanding Slopers and Passive Stress on Fingers
Understanding Slopers and Passive Stress on Fingers

If you have been climbing for a while, it's easy to understand that hanging below slopers uses much more friction than on other hold types.

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Finger Injury RehabTyler NelsonMay 7, 2024ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand
Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Gnar Stool Podcast

An April 2024 interview featuring Tyler on The Gnar Stool Podcast by Gnarly Nutrition.

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Podcasts, General ClimbingTyler NelsonApril 30, 2024
Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Dr. Tyler Nelson | The TrainingBeta Podcast

An April 2024 interview featuring Tyler on The TrainingBeta Podcast.

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Podcasts, General ClimbingTyler NelsonApril 24, 2024
The Problem with Mental Toughness | with Mindset Coach Zoe Sayetta
The Problem with Mental Toughness | with Mindset Coach Zoe Sayetta

The first step to changing your narrative is becoming aware of it – observe your self-talk and its impact on your behavior, then make changes where necessary.

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General ClimbingTyler NelsonApril 1, 2024mindset
Climbing Science, Training Mistakes, and Donuts | Mountain Talk Podcast

An interview featuring Tyler on Mountain Talk with George Bieker.

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Podcasts, General ClimbingTyler NelsonMarch 5, 2024
Strength Training for Older Athletes, Good Pain, and Poor Habits Outdoor Athletes Should Discard | The Ageless Athlete Podcast

Strength Training for Older Athletes, Contrarian Advice on Managing Injuries , What is 'Good Pain, and Poor Habits Outdoor Athletes Should Discard

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Podcasts, General ClimbingTyler NelsonFebruary 22, 2024
Coach Jesse on Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization | The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Find out why Jesse focused more on weight training than climbing last summer.

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Podcasts, General ClimbingTyler NelsonJanuary 30, 2024
Coach Jesse on 10 Tips to Start 2024 Off Right | The Struggle Climbing Show

Take your training, performance, and enjoyment to new heights this year.

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Podcasts, General ClimbingTyler NelsonJanuary 30, 2024
Habits to Prevent Injuries | The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Takeaways from years of finger strength experimenting and more.

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PodcastsTyler NelsonJanuary 30, 2024
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