Do you do this mistake when you’re on the hangboard?
Read MoreThe Struggle Climbing Show asks Tyler about common pitfalls and shares tips for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced climbers to level up their power.
Read MoreUnderstand the testing methods for finger strength, power, and how to improve what is holding you back from sending your project.
Read MoreHow can you truly build finger strength?
Read MoreThis episode covers everything finger strength training with Dr. Nelson.
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When should you start using this popular training tool?
Read MoreIn this episode, learn Tyler’s suggestions for training finger endurance.
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Climbers do a lot of random exercises in hopes of getting more power. But the most effective thing they can do is adjust how they lift weights.
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The C4PC bridges the gap between the skills coach and the fitness professional providing coaches with the knowledge and skill set to raise the standard of care and coaching in the climbing community and to become an elite professional in the field.
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The body needs stress to build tolerance (capacity). But, as with anything, it has a finite capacity. It's relative.
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Have you had the experience that not climbing made your fingers just as sore as loading them? This is due to the anatomy and mechanics of the synovial joint.
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We all know that training volume is risky, but are there guidelines for what these athletes "shouldn't" do? That is a trickier question.
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The A2 is the most commonly ruptured pulley in adult climbers (not kids) and is NOT common in other sports.
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The A3 pulley can tolerate more abuse than the A2 and A4 because of its attachment point (the volar plate).
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I likely prescribe grip variation more often than most (rehabilitation purposes), but coaches must also understand the difference. The implications on your athletes are significant, especially those with shoulder and elbow pain.
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A common mistake in the climbing world is the assumption that finger boarding, rope climbing, limit bouldering, campusing, etc., all result in the same type of fatigue. Now we know this not to be true.
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Getting coordinated at finger extension exercises will never transfer to rock climbing. We want recruitment, not random skills.
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Strength training is intimidating, but trust me: If you can climb up a boulder, you can lift something heavy off the ground.
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Taping should be part of progressive rehab plan, not a method to prevent one.
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Using a heavy band is a simple method to load a sore wrist before climbing. It's portable, easy to set up, and stresses the joint from multiple directions.
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