Want more from Dr. Nelson? Check out these podcast episodes and articles.
podcast episodes
The Limits of Fingerboard Training | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 212
Youth Finger Injuries | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 202
Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 186
New Insights for Finger Training | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 169
Endurance Training for Fingers | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 162
High Volume Power Training | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 155
The Role of Stretching for Climbers | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 149
The Simplest Finger Training Protocol | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 133
Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendon Injuries | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 128
The Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 118
Using Blood Flow Restriction During Performance Phases and for Injury Healing | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 108
Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 84
Making Sense of Science for Climbers | The Power Company Climbing Podcast Ep. 147
A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating | The Nugget Climbing Podcast Ep. 79
What Drives Tyler | Sends and Suffers Ep. 27
Tyler Nelson on Tendon Rehab, Moxy Monitor and VBT for Climbing | Upside Strength Podcast Ep. 178
Rock Climbing Training | Make Moves Podcast Ep. 38
Experiments, Injuries & Tools of The Trade | Lattice Training Podcast
Expert Analysis: Training with Dr. Tyler Nelson | The Struggle Climbing Show
Training for Ice and Mixed Climbing with Dr. Tyler Nelson | Up North Rocks
Training Finger Endurance with a Hangboard or a Tindeq | The TrainingBeta Podcast Ep. 239
Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Strength | The Struggle Climbing Show
How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts | The Nugget Climbing Podcast Ep. 202
Strength Training for Older Athletes, Contrarian Advice on Managing Injuries , What is 'Good Pain, and Poor Habits Outdoor Athletes Should Discard | The Ageless Athlete Ep. 8
Climbing Science, Training Mistakes, and Donuts | Mountain Talk Ep. 8
Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Tyler Nelson | The TrainingBeta Podcast
published articles
Dr. Tyler Nelson’s Density Hangs Finger Training For Rock Climbing | Strength Climbing
Are Most Climbers Getting Fingerboard Training Wrong? (Part 1) | Climbing
Are Most Climbers Getting Fingerboard Training Wrong? (Part 2) | Climbing
Facts Over Fiction: C4HP Brings A New Age of Training | Gripped
Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and PAP for Coaches | TrainingBeta
How Strength Training Is Misunderstood by Climbers (Part 1) | Climbing
How Strength Training Is Misunderstood by Climbers (Part 2) | Climbing
The Key to Power Training? Take it Off the Wall (Part 1)| Climbing
The Key to Power Training? Take it Off the Wall (Part 2)| Climbing
Other media
Should Beginner Climbers Hangboard? | Lattice Training YouTube video
the c4hp podcast
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