The body needs stress to build tolerance (capacity). But, as with anything, it has a finite capacity. It's relative.

Using a heavy band is a simple method to load a sore wrist before climbing. It's portable, easy to set up, and stresses the joint from multiple directions.

Ulnar sided wrist pain is quite common in climbers. Here are 10 exercise videos to help.

Research shows that eccentrics aren't any "better" than different types of mechanical load (isometrics, isotonics, BFR etc.).

I often hear: “I do too much of _ which means I need to train the opposite to make sure I am ‘balanced’.” This is assumed to reduce injury risk. The reality is, you’re not balanced.

TFCC injuries are complex, and rehab looks different from that of tendon injuries.

Climbers can use this tool to stress different parts of the forearm (though I’m not always a fan of it with golfer’s elbow).

Climbers can use this tool to stress different parts of the forearm (though I’m not always a fan of it with golfer’s elbow).

Marketing tactics make people think tools will heal them, but there are more critical layers to rehab.

Injured wrist? Build back confidence by controlling your own stress.