Does Resistance Training Improve Climbing Performance? Here’s What the Research Says

Does Resistance Training Improve Climbing Performance?

Resistance training (RT) has been the elephant in the climbing gym for decades, especially in elite circles where weight-to-strength ratio paranoia runs deep. This narrative review by Saeterbakken et al. (2024) addresses that issue directly, examining whether RT improves climbing performance or merely adds unnecessary muscle mass and fatigue.

1. Strength ≠ Performance (But It’s a Prerequisite)

The authors rightly point out that climbing performance isn't limited by strength alone. But maximal finger flexor force, hang time, and rate of force development (RFD) still show strong correlations with ability level. So while fingerboard strength won't teach you how to climb, you’ll probably struggle to climb hard without it.

Advanced climbers demonstrate:

  • Longer finger hang duration

  • Greater oxidative capacity (SmO₂ kinetics)

  • Superior RFD and finger flexor critical force

This is consistent with prior work showing the metabolic threshold in the forearm shifts upward in better climbers — they're more efficient and more powerful.

2. Heavy Load ≠ Heavy Body

There is a persistent fear that strength training increases muscle mass and harms relative strength. But the paper clarifies: hypertrophy isn’t binary. Structured, low-volume, high-load training (1–5 repetitions per set or < 5 seconds of hang time) can increase force without significant concentric strength augmentation (CSA) gains. Increased tendon and neural drive adaptations are likely the fundamental drivers of strength gains in trained climbers.

More importantly, increasing absolute strength means submaximal loads during climbing moves feel easier, reducing the per-move fatigue cost and overall session stress.

3. Resistance Training Needs a Context

RT isn’t a replacement for climbing — it’s a supplement. The authors use a helpful classification system:

  • >30s or >15 reps = Strength endurance

  • 3–30s or 8–15 RM = Hypertrophy bias

  • <5s or 1–5 RM = Maximal strength bias

Translating that to hangboards: training to failure on a 25 mm edge for 5 seconds at 1RM is not the same as repeaters or density hangs, and each targets a different physiological system.

4. Power Output is Still Understudied

Despite its relevance, upper body power and RFD remain underrepresented in climbing research. The authors cite a few studies where campus board training improved RFD by ~20–30%, but longitudinal data is sparse. It’s also unclear how much those gains translate to redpoint or onsight grades.

5. Resistance Training Probably Prevents Injuries — But We Need More Evidence

Climbers who engage in RT appear to report fewer non-acute injuries, particularly to fingers and shoulders, although most of this evidence is retrospective or derived from other sports. The argument is logical: higher max strength reduces relative effort per move, potentially lowering tissue load and risk of overuse injuries.

The authors also highlight an important cultural point: low body mass index (BMI) and disordered eating are common among elite climbers. RT may shift the focus toward building capacity, not just reducing weight, and that’s a good thing.

Bottom Line:

This review is a comprehensive synthesis of climbing RT literature; however, much of the training rationale still relies on general strength and conditioning research. While the physiological logic holds up, we lack longitudinal studies that demonstrate RT improves climbing performance in elite athletes. For now, the takeaway is this:

If you can’t pull hard, you’ll fatigue faster. If you can’t produce force quickly, you’ll miss the move. And if your training doesn’t match the demands of your climbing style, you’re just lifting weights.

Research:

Saeterbakken, A.H., Stien, N., Pedersen, H., et al. (2024). The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention. Sports Medicine - Open, 10(10). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40798-024-00677-w

Tyler Nelson