Resources for Rock Climbing
The first step to changing your narrative is becoming aware of it – observe your self-talk and its impact on your behavior, then make changes where necessary.
Strength Training for Older Athletes, Contrarian Advice on Managing Injuries , What is 'Good Pain, and Poor Habits Outdoor Athletes Should Discard
The Struggle Climbing Show asks Tyler about common pitfalls and shares tips for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced climbers to level up their power.
Understand the testing methods for finger strength, power, and how to improve what is holding you back from sending your project.
Climbers do a lot of random exercises in hopes of getting more power. But the most effective thing they can do is adjust how they lift weights.
The C4PC bridges the gap between the skills coach and the fitness professional providing coaches with the knowledge and skill set to raise the standard of care and coaching in the climbing community and to become an elite professional in the field.
I likely prescribe grip variation more often than most (rehabilitation purposes), but coaches must also understand the difference. The implications on your athletes are significant, especially those with shoulder and elbow pain.
Strength training is intimidating, but trust me: If you can climb up a boulder, you can lift something heavy off the ground.
Having strength and being able to apply strength are two different things. But your training should work both.
Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?
Topping out is anxiety-inducing for a lot of climbers. There are a few reasons for this, but most of them stem from the fact that climbing skills are terrain specific.
As one becomes more effective at getting through submaximal climbs in fewer tries, one expects to do more of that level of climbing in a given day. The end result being not that less energy is spent on a mileage day, but actually that the mileage days get longer and harder – and even more energy is spent. I’m as guilty of this as anyone.
Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?
Strength is the peak, rather than the base, of our performance. Let’s look at what other factors influence our climbing performance before we ever get the chance to apply force to the wall.
Research shows that eccentrics aren't any "better" than different types of mechanical load (isometrics, isotonics, BFR etc.).
I often hear: “I do too much of _ which means I need to train the opposite to make sure I am ‘balanced’.” This is assumed to reduce injury risk. The reality is, you’re not balanced.
Sure, downclimbing might be necessary in certain scenarios. But what about from a training standpoint?
Podcasts With More Info
Strength Training for Older Athletes, Contrarian Advice on Managing Injuries , What is 'Good Pain, and Poor Habits Outdoor Athletes Should Discard
This episode covers fast fingers vs. strong fingers, injury prevention and rehab, how to know when you're approaching junk mileage and common plateaus and how to break through.
What are climbers currently doing that concerns him injury-wise, and how can they prevent / improve this? What is the future for the use of training and assessment, and the tools/gadgets/apps related to it?
In this episode, Tyler and Clayton cover training, injuries, principles and more. It’s helpful info for everyone, not just climbers!
This episode covers blood flow restriction training (BFR) and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. Tyler also discusses finger training and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.
In this episode, Tyler and Kris discuss how to look at the research, whether science is the end all be all, and what exactly is the context for all of this information.
In this interview, Neely and Tyler talk about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.
In this interview, Neely and Tyler talk about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.
In this interview, Neely and Tyler talk about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.
In this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.
In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do.
In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing.
In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.
In this episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention.
In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury.
In this episode, Dr. Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing.
The Camp 4 Performance Podcast
Find it on Spotify or Apple Podcasts.