Pro Clinic: Dr. Tyler Nelson Answers Top 10 Listener Questions on Finger Training, Strength Training, and Optimizing for Performance | The Struggle Climbing Show

In this special Q&A episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance answers YOUR questions, which yielded amazing insights including:

  • Which grip type is the best to train?

  • How to rotate finger training methodologies for optimal results 

  • Which finger training to do pre season vs in season 

  • What’s the ideal percentage of max for safe and effective finger training? 

  • Is it better to be strong for the grade or week for the grade?

  • The mistake of correlating finger strength-to-grade

  • The difference between amateurs and pros on their strength-to-grade performance

  • Surprising study showing elite climbers use less force on climbs than amateurs  

  • Set and rep scheme to avoid fatigue when strength training 

  • Training while injured 

  • How to effectively train power and endurance on the same day 

  • How to beat the spinning pull-up bar carnival game 

  • Do arm wrestling training tactics translate to climbing?

  • How Tyler programs his training and climbing days 

  • What to do if you hit a finger strength plateau

Podcasts, General ClimbingTyler Nelson