High Volume Power Training | The TrainingBeta Podcast

In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do.

PodcastsTyler NelsonNovember 14, 2022

Endurance Training for Fingers | The TrainingBeta Podcast

In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing.

PodcastsTyler NelsonNovember 14, 2022finger

New Insights for Finger Training | The TrainingBeta Podcast

In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research.

PodcastsTyler NelsonNovember 14, 2022finger

New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol | The TrainingBeta Podcast

In this episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention.

PodcastsTyler NelsonNovember 14, 2022youth, warmup

Youth Finger Injuries | The TrainingBeta Podcast

In this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury.

PodcastsTyler NelsonNovember 14, 2022finger, youth

The Limits of Fingerboard Training | The TrainingBeta Podcast

In this episode, Dr. Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing.

PodcastsTyler NelsonNovember 14, 2022finger

10 Exercises for Climbers With Ulnar Sided Wrist Pain

Ulnar sided wrist pain is quite common in climbers. Here are 10 exercise videos to help.

Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 24, 2022muscles, ligaments, tendons, strength, joint, wrist, video

Eccentrics Are Overprescribed for Climbers

Research shows that eccentrics aren't any "better" than different types of mechanical load (isometrics, isotonics, BFR etc.).

Wrist Injury Rehab, General ClimbingTyler NelsonOctober 24, 2022ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

The Confusion of Antagonists / Opposition Training for Climbers

I often hear: “I do too much of _ which means I need to train the opposite to make sure I am ‘balanced’.” This is assumed to reduce injury risk. The reality is, you’re not balanced.

General Climbing, Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 24, 2022misconception, recovery, muscles

Understanding TFCC Wrist Injuries in Climbers

TFCC injuries are complex, and rehab looks different from that of tendon injuries.

Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 24, 2022ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Rock Climbers and Trigger Finger

Climbers can use this tool to stress different parts of the forearm (though I’m not always a fan of it with golfer’s elbow).

Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 20, 2022ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Using the Wrist Wrench for Rock Climbers

Climbers can use this tool to stress different parts of the forearm (though I’m not always a fan of it with golfer’s elbow).

Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 20, 2022ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

True Rehab Is Less About Tools, and More About This.

Marketing tactics make people think tools will heal them, but there are more critical layers to rehab.

Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 20, 2022ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Make Loading An Injured Wrist Feel Safe.

Injured wrist? Build back confidence by controlling your own stress.

Wrist Injury RehabTyler NelsonOctober 20, 2022ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain, wrist, hand

Rotator Cuff Basics for Rock Climbers

I consider the cuff more like the core. If we train with more specific positions to our sport and progress force, velocity, and volume we should be addressing these muscles adequately.

Shoulder Injury RehabTyler NelsonSeptember 27, 2022arm, ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain

The Confusion of Horizontal Pressing in Climbers

Do we press much with climbing? No, not really. We definitely do way more pulling. But it isn’t that simple.

Shoulder Injury RehabTyler NelsonSeptember 27, 2022arm, ligaments, muscles, tendons, tissue, joint, injury, pain

Pull-Up Pain: Grip Position Matters

Pull up training is a core training exercise for climbers. I likely prescribe grip variation more often than most (for rehabilitation purposes), but coaches must also understand the difference.