10 Exercises for Climbers With Ulnar Sided Wrist Pain
Ulnar sided wrist pain is quite common in climbers.
I believe the incidence is partly due to the new style of competition climbing which requires loading the body on volumes.
In many instances this puts the wrist in a position called ulnar deviation. That is when the pinky moves towards the inside of the elbow.
the below videos show a progressive method to load the ulnar side of the wrist with a weighted hammer.
(It’s hard to find a hammer heavy enough so I’m using a sling with extra weight. Not because I’m trying to make it unstable.)
Video 1: 5:3 x3 repeater
Video 2: 30s yielding isotonic
Video 3: 5s overcoming isotonic
Video 4: 5 rep isotonic
Video 5: velocity isotonic
And some more modified exercises:
Video 6: 1-arm 90-degree PIMA with ulnar deviation
Video 7: 1-arm 120-degree PIMA with deviation
Video 8: weighted hammer/band PIMA
Video 9: concentric focused ulnar deviation with hammer/band
Video 10: rapid concentric ulnar deviation with hammer/band
Video 1: 5:3 x3 repeater
Video 2: 30s yielding isotonic
Video 3: 5s overcoming isotonic
Video 4: 5 rep isotonic
Video 5: velocity isotonic
Video 6: 1-arm 90-degree PIMA with ulnar deviation
Video 7: 1-arm 120-degree PIMA with deviation
Video 8: weighted hammer/band PIMA
Video 9: concentric focused ulnar deviation with hammer/band
Video 10: rapid concentric ulnar deviation with hammer/band
Key takeaways:
The progression in the above videos would work well for rehab but also for athletes looking to swing ice tools during the winter months.
Building capacity in this part of the wrist is essential for staying injury free.