UK Assessment Course (The Project - Poole) Nov 9-10

UK Assessment Course (The Project - Poole) Nov 9-10


Course will be hosted in the UK at The Project Climbing Centre in Poole

Join Dr. Tyler Nelson from Camp4 Human Performance for a first time overseas two-day clinic learning about the future of climbing athlete assessments and finger training. There’s a lot of cover in this two day seminar and will be part didactic and part hands on. This course will be catered to climbing coaches and athletes interested in sports science and its application to rock climbing training. We will discuss the scientific rationale behind my assessment protocol and then run participants through sections of it to demonstrate how specific and individualized we need to be with training.

These metrics include: maximum whole body strength, finger strength, contact strength, anaerobic capacity, and local muscular endurance.

Course format – 2 days (12-14 hours approximately)

Saturday 6-7 hours

 • This portion of the clinic will discuss the principles of how to safely and accurately test athletes in a climbing gym setting. The specifics of testing measures which we will use later in the day. This helps clarify testing goals and methodology so the coaches can communicate these clearly to athletes.

1. Testing methodology and principles of administration.
2. Tests used and the techniques necessary.
3. Running coaches/participants through the tests to ensure understanding.

Sunday 6-7 hours

 • Discussion of test results and how to use those to create programs specific to the individual athlete. We will also cover how to track progression over a cycle for better adaptation and injury prevention. Each participant will get their own customized test results.

1. How to use the data to create custom programs for each individual
2. Customized use of data to prescribe workloads and work-rest ratios
3. How to track program adaptation and fatigue
4. Program autoregulation for injury prevention

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