Having strength and being able to apply strength are two different things. But your training should work both.
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Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?
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Topping out is anxiety-inducing for a lot of climbers. There are a few reasons for this, but most of them stem from the fact that climbing skills are terrain specific.
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As one becomes more effective at getting through submaximal climbs in fewer tries, one expects to do more of that level of climbing in a given day. The end result being not that less energy is spent on a mileage day, but actually that the mileage days get longer and harder – and even more energy is spent. I’m as guilty of this as anyone.
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Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?
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Strength is the peak, rather than the base, of our performance. Let’s look at what other factors influence our climbing performance before we ever get the chance to apply force to the wall.
Read MoreThis episode is all about training for ice climbing and mixed climbing.
Read MoreThis episode covers fast fingers vs. strong fingers, injury prevention and rehab, how to know when you're approaching junk mileage and common plateaus and how to break through.
Read MoreWhat are climbers currently doing that concerns him injury-wise, and how can they prevent / improve this? What is the future for the use of training and assessment, and the tools/gadgets/apps related to it?
Read MoreIn this episode, Tyler and Clayton cover training, injuries, principles and more. It’s helpful info for everyone, not just climbers!
Read MoreListen to this interview that covers a bunch of climbing topics like VBT, Smo2 and BFR.
Read MoreIn this episode, Mario talks to Tyler about what drives him.
Read MoreThis episode covers blood flow restriction training (BFR) and how it can be used for injury rehab, active recovery, or getting stronger. Tyler also discusses finger training and why most hangboard protocols are more similar than different.
Read MoreIn this episode, Tyler and Kris discuss how to look at the research, whether science is the end all be all, and what exactly is the context for all of this information.
Read MoreListen to this interview where Dr. Nelson discusses BFR and injury rehab.
Read MoreIn this interview, Neely and Tyler talk about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.
Read MoreIn this interview, Neely and Tyler talk about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
Read MoreI talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.
Read MoreIn this interview, Neely and Tyler talk about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.
Read MoreIn this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.
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